Chapter One
The Best of the Turks & Caicos Islands
For years, the Turks & Caicos Islands' considerable natural attributes were known to just a fortunate few-many of them divers and snorkelers exploring the stunning ring of coral reefs and dramatic drop-offs of the continental shelf wall. But the sun-kissed archipelago is undiscovered no more: Overnight, it seems, resorts, restaurants, and tour operators have sprung up like mushrooms after a spring rain. Construction along the beauteous 19km (12 miles) of Grace Bay Beach is fashioning a lineup of sleek condos and resort hotels, and the tourist infrastructure is racing to catch up. Notoriously potholed dirt roads have been neatly paved (sidewalks even!), and a brand-new Hotel School at the Grace Bay Club is helping train a first-generation hospitality community.
Even with all the madcap development the islands have undergone in the last 5 years, the Turks & Caicos Islands (or "the TCI") have retained their getaway-vacation feel. The islands are best appreciated if you prefer your pleasures laid-back. If your idea of entertainment is 24-hour steel drums on the beach or a superheated nightlife, you may be disappointed (I take that back-there's always Club Med). The partying is more a sip-a-beer-in-a-beach-shack variety, with shade from casuarina trees and unencumbered views of that incredible turquoise sea.
This is not to say that you can't get your fill of high-adrenaline outdoor adventures. You can scuba-dive a vertical undersea wall where the continental shelf drops a heart-stopping mile deep (Scuba Diving magazine named the TCI one of the top 10 best diving sites in the world). You can parasail high over Grace Bay and actually swim alongside humpback whales or velvety stingrays. You can cast a line for bonefish, reef fish, night fish-or free-dive 6m (20 ft.) down to the sea bottom for fresh conch.
Still, what is most remarkable, in even the most heavily touristed spots like Grace Bay, is what you don't experience. You never hear the roar of jet skis or scores of motorboats (the coral reef is a protected national park and simply too shallow in spots to allow powerboats and personal water craft to be rented without a captain aboard in most cases). You don't see giant water parks rising up over the horizon or sunbathers packed cheek by jowl. You aren't confronted by an army of pushy hucksters roaming the beach.
And don't even bother coming if you're looking for a shopping spree. The island has one "mall," but chain retailers and superstores have yet to make inroads here-no Gap, no Target. You won't even see those mega T-shirt shops that have become ubiquitous in many seaside resorts. You can buy T-shirts, for sure, both of the generic tourist variety and more personalized versions, at boutique shops scattered about in the few retail clusters on the island. You can find good art by local artists in established galleries, but you also have the opportunity to seek out the source yourself, down an unpaved road, perhaps, with "potcake" dogs (island dogs traditionally fed from the bottom of the pot) licking your ankles and bougainvillea blossoms covering the ground.
In fact, you won't find a typical chain-anything here, so if you can't go 3 days without a fast-food burger, you may be a little grumpy after a week on the TCI. But you can get more-than-acceptable nonchain burgers, pizzas, and any kind of Western-style grub you desire-as well as some of the best food in the Caribbean. Expect to pay bruising big-city prices for anything you eat, however; it's tough to grow anything in this parched, sandy terrain, and most foodstuffs have to be imported.
Indeed, if you like your Caribbean islands thrillingly lush and mountainous, the dry scrubland terrain of the TCI may under-whelm you. But if you dream of lying on a pristine parcel of sugary sand encircled by a mesmerizing aquamarine sea, or want nothing more than to spend an afternoon happily bubbling about a living, breathing coral reef with mask and snorkel, book a trip now.
For a thumbnail portrait of each island, see "The Islands in Brief," in chapter 2.
1 The Best Beaches
Surrounded by the world's third-largest coral reef, the Turks & Caicos Islands have some of the finest powdery-sand beaches and most ethereal turquoise seas in the world. Most are just minutes away from an airport, and you'll rarely have to vie for beach space with anyone else. Tour boats can whisk you to uninhabited cays where you can play Robinson Crusoe for a day. The waters are pristine and diamond-clear, and waves rarely rise above a gentle ripple-perfect for young kids and snorkelers of all ages.
Grace Bay (Providenciales): These 19km (12 miles) of pale sands and azure seas are the pride of Provo; Cond Nast Traveler has called this one of the world's best beaches. An increasing number of resorts and condo hotels have sprung up along the shore. Like much of the TCI, the beach is fringed by a coral reef system with fabulous snorkeling and diving. See chapter 5.
Malcolm Beach (Providenciales): The traditional way to see this charming cove (often referred to as Malcolm Roads Beach) is with a 44 along twisting, bumpy Malcolm Roads. You can also access the beach by staying at Amanyara (the resort is adjacent to the beach) or by getting a tour-boat operator to take you there. Its waters are part of the Northwest Point Marine National Park. See chapter 5.
Long Bay (Providenciales): The calm, shallow waters of this quiet beach on Provo's southeastern shore make it perfect for young children. Take a horseback ride on the beach here with Provo Ponies. See chapter 5.
Sapodilla Bay and Taylor Bay (Providenciales): Part of the Chalk Sound National Park, these beautiful, shallow bays along Provo's southwest coastline have soft silty bottoms and warm water. See chapter 5.
Pine Cay (Caicos Cays): The money shot in Caribbean Travel & Life's coverage of the 2005-06 winter season? A pic of this private island's perfect crescent of pale white sand rimmed by azure seas. The island is also home to The Meridian Club. See chapters 3 and 5.
Parrot Cay (Caicos Cays): Another gorgeous private island, this one with a secluded beach graced by beach bums of the celebrity variety. See chapter 3 and 5.
Sandy Point (North Caicos): Up until now, only boaters and those in the know found their way to this crescent of perfect beach, within sight of the Parrot Cay Resort. Ground was broken in 2006 for construction of the Royal Reef Resort, a luxury hotel and condos fronting the beach. See chapters 3 and 5.
Whitby beaches (North Caicos): The coves of Three Mary Cays are prime snorkeling spots. Step into the shallows of the palm-fringed Pelican Point beach (in front of Pelican Beach Hotel) and find conch shells of every size. Lovely Horsestable Beach has enjoyed its North Caicos seclusion for years (it's also a prime bird-watching spot); now it's the future home of the $70-million St. Charles condominium resort. See chapters 3 and 5.
Mudjin Harbor (Middle Caicos): This beach is as stunning seen from the green limestone cliffs towering above as it is in an up-close exploration of the wind-swept coves below. See chapter 5.
Bambarra Beach (Middle Caicos): Casuarina trees fringe this picturesque white-sand beach. Its calm, shallow aquamarine waters are the site of the festive Valentine's Day model sailboat races, and the Middle Caicos Day beach party is held here in August. See chapter 5.
Governor's Beach (Grand Turk): Grand Turk's most celebrated beach has great snorkeling and is a popular picnic spot under shady pines. It's in the Columbus Landfall National Park-more about Columbus's "landfall" later-and within sightlines of the new Grand Turk Cruise Center, which in 2006 began welcoming 2,000-passenger ships 2 days a week. See chapter 6.
Pillory Beach (Grand Turk): The Bohio Dive Resort is set on this handsome stretch of Grand Turk beach. See chapter 6.
The beaches of Salt Cay: This tiny island has some of the best snorkeling beaches in the Caribbean. The calmest waters are usually found on North Beach and Point Pleasant. See chapter 6.
2 The Best Outdoor Adventures
The waters here are superlative for all kinds of outdoor adventures, from diving and snorkeling to sailing, kayaking, and fishing. But watersports aren't the only game in town. You'll find prime golf and tennis facilities in Provo-and Rollerblade hockey is all the rage with local school kids. See chapters 5 and 6 for more on outdoor sports.
Snorkeling the islands: Stellar snorkeling opportunities are found throughout the islands, whether the Caicos Cays, North Caicos, Middle Caicos, South Caicos, Grand Turk, or Salt Cay (which some claim has the country's best snorkeling), but you can also snorkel right off Provo's spectacular Grace Bay Beach. The government has established snorkel trails at Smith's Reef and Bight Reef, right in front of the Reef Residences Coral Gardens resort (the hotel even has an on-site dive-and-snorkel instructor). These reefs are right off the shoreline, providing easy access into a fragile but beautiful world. See chapter 5.
Taking a beachcombing cruise (Caicos Cays): A number of tour-boat operators offer variations on half- and full-day beachcombing sojourns. Your trip may include a stop on Little Water Cay, a nature reserve set aside to protect the colony of rare rock iguanas; snorkeling the coral reefs and diving for conch; or combing the beaches of uninhabited cays for sand dollars and other shells. See "Caicos Water Sports Operators: Master List" box on p. 102.
Riding horses on the beach (Long Bay, Provo): You don't need a whit of riding experience to thoroughly enjoy a leisurely late-afternoon trot on a beautiful beach. The gentle mounts of Provo Ponies are perfect for novices, but they don't mind kicking it up a bit for proven riders-they love the beach, too. See chapter 5.
Strolling Grace Bay before sunset: You'll be surprised at the long stretches of beautiful beach you have all to yourself (and perhaps a few friendly "potcake" dogs). The sand is a little cooler, and the water takes on the pink and purple hues of the setting sun. Stop in and sink into an inviting white-cushioned perch at the Lounge (p. 67), the wonderful oceanfront bar at Grace Bay Club, and sip a cocktail while you wait for the green flash on the horizon. See chapter 5.
Watching the glowworms glow: Four or 5 days after a full moon, millions of glowworms come out just after sunset to mate-lighting up the shallow local waters with a sparkling green glow. You can see them on a glowworm cruise in the Caicos Cays or off any number of Caicos Bank docks. The show is over after the females devour the males when the mating ritual ends. See chapter 5.
Hiking or biking the Crossing Place Trail (Middle Caicos): This old coastal road, first established in the late 1700s by settlers working the local plantations, has been reopened from the Conch Bar to the Indian Cave field-road section and is now a National Trust heritage site. It has heartbreakingly beautiful sections, some on bluffs overlooking the blue-green ocean shallows and rocky outcrops; others bordered by island brush that includes wild sea-island cotton, remnants of the 18th-century plantations, and elegant sisal. Follow hiking or biking trails; when you get hot, take a swim in the shallow coves below. Be sure to visit Conch Bar Cave, a massive aboveground limestone cave system that was used by Lucayan Indians some 600 years ago. See chapter 5.
Diving the Wall off Grand Turk: You can find great scuba-diving spots throughout the TCI, including spectacular opportunities off Provo's Northwest Point and in West Caicos. But Grand Turk's electrifying dives are just some 274m (900 ft.) offshore, where the continental shelf drops off from the coral reef in dramatic fashion. Along the ledges of this sheer wall is marine life in all its eye-popping plumage. See p. 133.
Whale-Watching on Salt Cay: From January through April, humpback whales migrate along the 7,000-foot trench of the Columbus Passage (which runs between the Turks islands and the Caicos islands) to the Silver Banks to mate and calf. You can actually snorkel and swim alongside these 15m (50-ft.) creatures. See chapter 6.
Finding treasures on the beach: The currents drop off a good amount of flotsam on these windward TCI beaches-much of it worthless junk. But hey, one man's trash is another man's treasure. Nearly every island has a visionary artist or two who finds inspiration (and raw materials) in beach salvage. Of course, you never know what will wash up: In 2006, silver pieces of eight and an 18th-century spyglass were picked up on the Salt Cay beaches. And bottles containing messages have found their way here from all over the world; the Turks & Caicos National Museum even has a collection of messages in a bottle. The water's edge also yields gorgeous shells, from snow white sand dollars to queen conch shells-but remember: Always return a shell back into the sea if it has something living inside. (And shell collecting is not permitted in the national parks.) See chapters 5 and 6.
3 Frommer's Favorite Luxury Resorts
Most of the country's accommodations are on Providenciales, where more and more resort/condo hotels are being constructed as this is written. The Northwest Point is a particularly hot area, with Aman-resorts' much-anticipated Amanyara opening in 2006 and another luxury resort in the works nearby.
Amanyara, Northwest Point, Provo ([??] 866/941-8133): The Singapore-based Amanresorts' first foray into the West Indies is a hit, deftly marrying unparalleled pampered luxury with a laidback Turks & Caicos aesthetic; the name means "peaceful place." The guest pavilions are huge, beautifully appointed in typical Aman teakwood, and completely private. See p. 76.
Parrot Cay Resort, Parrot Cay, Provo ([??] 877/754-0726): Yes, this is the exclusive island resort where Ben Affleck married Jennifer Garner and Bruce Willis owns a home. But it's also a pretty wonderful place to completely unwind and destress, whether you're stretched out on the secluded beach or thrilling to a treatment by a Balinese masseuse at the world-class COMO Shambhala spa. See p. 78.
Grace Bay Club, Grace Bay Road, Grace Bay ([??] 800/946-5757): One of the Grace Bay pioneers continues to upgrade and reinvent itself, and it just gets better and better. Everything, from the spacious luxury suites to the alfresco beachfront Lounge, is done just right. You can even have a staff chef cook you and your friends a gourmet dinner in your suite's state-of-the-art kitchen. See p. 66.
The Palms, Grace Bay Road, Grace Bay ([??] 866/877-7256): There are no bad rooms at this voluptuous Miami-style resort, with gorgeous pools and restaurants and a 25,000-square-foot spa with reflecting pools. Try the mother-of-pearl-scrub spa treatment, which uses hand-crushed queen conch shells blended with aromatic oils. See p. 68.
The Meridian Club, Pine Cay, Provo ([??] 866/746-3229): This is luxury of a different kind, where 12 comfortable suites-sans TV, phones, radios, even air-conditioning-on a secluded private island offer the kind of solitude and serenity found in few places in the world. The beach and watersports opportunities are superb. See p. 79.
Point Grace, Grace Bay, Provo ([??] 866/924-7223): Set on a stunning bend on Grace Bay Beach, this resort gets consistent high marks for its spacious, handsomely furnished British colonial-style suites, lovely pool, and ultraromantic restaurant, Grace's Cottage, one of Provo's best places to dine. See p. 69.
Grand Turk Inn, Front Street, Grand Turk ([??] /fax 649/946-2827): The big, comfortable suites are laid-back luxury personified. The innkeepers, sisters who've lived all over the world, are hospitality pros, and their loving restoration of the 150-year-old Methodist manse has created Grand Turk's best accommodations. See p. 127.
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Excerpted from Frommer's Portable Turks & Caicosby Alexis Lipsitz Flippin Copyright © 2006 by Alexis Lipsitz Flippin. Excerpted by permission.
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