Chapter One
The Best of Montr?al & Qu?bec City
If Montr?al had a tagline, it could well be "Any excuse for a party." An enormous joie de vivre pervades the way the city presents itself, organizes itself, and goes about its business. The calendar is packed with festivals and events that bring out natives and guests from around the world.
To boot, a billion-dollar building boom has filled most of the vacant downtown lots. Over the past 40 years, and especially in the most recent 15, Montr?al has become a modern city in every regard, with skyscrapers in unexpected shapes and bright, noncorporate colors; a beautifully preserved historic district; and a large area of artists'' lofts, boutiques, cafes, and miles of restaurants.
American and European travelers will likely find Montr?al an urban near-paradise. The subway system, called the M?tro, is modern and swift. Streets are safe. Montr?al''s best restaurants are the equals of their south-of-the-border compatriots in every way.
Qu?bec City, more traditional and more French, is replacing its former conservatism with an ever-expanding aura of sophistication. With its impressive location above the St. Lawrence River and its virtually unblemished Old Town filled with 18th- and 19th-century houses, this city looks like France and is almost impossibly romantic-it''s unlike any other city in North America.
1 UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
MONTREAL
Listen to Jazz: In downtown, Old Town, the Plateau, and all over, this is a favorite pastime of locals and visitors, especially in late June and early July during the renowned Festival International de Jazz. See p. 29.
Savor Top-Notch Cuisine at Affordable Prices: Experience all of French cuisine''s interpretations-traditional, haute, bistro, Qu?b?cois-the way the locals do: by ordering the table d''h?te specials. You''ll get to indulge in three or more courses for a fixed price that is only slightly more than the cost of a single a la carte main course. Most full-service restaurants offer the option, if only at midday. See p. 81 for more information.
Explore Vieux-Montr?al: The old quarter has an overwhelmingly European flavor. Wander Place Jacques-Cartier, the district''s most popular outdoor square; explore museums and the churches'' stunning architecture; stroll or bike along the revitalized waterfront. See chapter 8 for more information, as well as the walking tour of Vieux-Montr?al on p. 112.
QUEBEC CITY
Linger at an Outdoor Cafe: Tables are set out at Place d''Armes in Upper Town, in the Quartier du Petit-Champlain in Lower Town, and along the Grande-All?e-a quality-of-life invention the French and their Qu?b?cois brethren have perfected. See chapter 15 for more information.
Soak Up the Blossoming Lower Town: Once all but abandoned to the grubby edges of the shipping industry, the riverside neighborhood of Basse-Ville/ Vieux-Port has been reborn, with antiques shops, bistros, and boutique hotels filling its rehabilitated 18th- and 19th-century buildings. See chapter 16 for more information, as well as the walking tour of Lower Town on p. 255.
Relax in Battlefields Park (Parc des Champs-de-Bataille): This beautifully situated green space overlooks the St. Lawrence River. It''s particularly lively on weekends, when families and lovers come to picnic and play. See p. 239 for more information.
2 THE BEST SPLURGE HOTELS
MONTREAL
H?tel Le St-James, 355 rue St-Jacques ouest ([??] 866/841-3111): Setting the standard against which any boutique hotel in town must measure itself, this former 19th-century bank in Vieux-Montr?al lets no luxurious detail escape its attention. From its opulent main hall to the sybaritic subterranean spa to its immaculately trained staff, H?tel Le St-James provides an experience that may well be the highlight of your visit. See p. 76.
W Montr?al, 901 rue Square-Victoria ([??] 888/627-7081): If you qualify as hip, aware, and on the fast track, waste no time booking a suite at this local branch of the spreading chain. It won''t hurt if your platinum card is paid up and you don''t need much sleep. There are three bars and lounges, a hyperchic restaurant, and a clientele composed of knockouts of both sexes. See p. 77.
QUEBEC CITY
Auberge Saint-Antoine, 8 rue St-Antoine ([??] 888/692-2211): Sure, there''s the Ch?teau Frontenac, looming up above, the very symbol of the city. But for a more intimate, less overwhelming visit, stay in Basse-Ville, or Lower Town. This auberge started as a stylish but largely unexceptional B&B and has grown in calculated phases into one of Qu?bec''s most desirable lodgings, with a chic lounge and a top restaurant to boot. See p. 215.
Dominion 1912, 126 rue St-Pierre ([??] 888/833-5253): Also a key player in the redevelopment of the once dreary Basse-Ville/Vieux-Port, the Dominion has rooms so large and bedding so cozily enveloping that you may not want to go out. Do, though, at least for the fireplace, croissants, and caf? au lait in the lobby. See p. 216.
3 THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS
MONTREAL
Auberge Bonaparte, 447 rue St-Fran?ois-Xavier ([??] 514/844-1448): When the long-established restaurant on the ground floor, Bonaparte (p. 92), was accorded a massive rehab and expansion, its owners built the comely inn upstairs. Rooms are simply furnished, but they''re clean and roomy enough, and a rooftop terrace overlooks Vieux-Montr?al''s Basilique Notre-Dame. See p. 80.
Auberge Les Passants du Sans Soucy, 171 rue St-Paul ouest ([??] 514/842-2634): Just around the corner from Bonaparte, this charming little B&B helped pioneer Vieux-Montr?al''s recovery to its current status as the must-see quarter of the city. Fireplaces and jet tubs are standard in all nine bedrooms. See p. 80.
QUEBEC CITY
H?tel Sainte-Anne, 32 rue Ste-Anne ([??] 877/222-9422): Practically in the shadow of the Ch?teau Frontenac (p. 210), this Euro-design hotel occupies a row house in the middle of Upper Town''s most touristy district. Rooms are stripped to the minimum, but as equipped as can be reasonably expected at these relatively gentle prices. See p. 215.
H?tel Champlain, 115 rue Ste-Anne ([??] 800/567-2106): Even the smallest rooms boast silk curtains, king or queen beds, and 300-thread-count sheets. A self-serve espresso machine by the front desk ensures free cappuccinos at any time of day or night. See p. 214.
4 THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE DINING EXPERIENCES
MONTREAL
Nuances, 1 av. du Casino, in the Casino de Montr?al ([??] 514/392-2708): This gourmet resto at the top of the city''s casino got an impressive face-lift in 2007 that made the decor as contemporary and elegant as the food-all creamy walls and pale leather banquettes. It''s a room with real star power. See p. 105.
Toqu?!, 900 Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle ([??] 514/499-2084): Superstar chef/ owner Norman Laprise has been thrilling Montr?al gourmands for years. In dishes of startling innovation, he brings together diverse ingredients that have rarely appeared before on restaurant plates. There''s little point in describing individual dishes, for he replaces them with some new invention before any of his entrees achieve signature status. See p. 90.
QUEBEC CITY
Initiale, 54 rue St-Pierre ([??] 418/694-1818): From its gracious tone and subdued lighting to its carefully paced multicourse menus, Initiale exudes silky polish from greeting to adieu. You will dine gloriously. See p. 225.
Laurie Rapha?l, 117 rue Dalhousie ([??] 418/692-4555): Dazzling. Given the growing local competition, the owners transformed their setting and shook up the menu. Service is spot-on and the food creative and artfully presented. See p. 228.
5 THE BEST MUSEUMS
MONTREAL
Mus?e des Beaux-Arts, 1379-80 rue Sherbrooke ouest ([??] 514/285-2000): Canada''s first museum devoted exclusively to the visual arts started out in 1912 in a neoclassical space on Sherbrooke''s north side. A newer pavilion on the opposite side is now connected by an underground series of galleries. Temporary exhibits are strong, and the permanent collection is largely devoted to international contemporary art and Canadian works. See p. 108.
Pointe-?-Calli?re (Montr?al Museum of Archaeology and History), 350 Place Royale ([??] 514/872-9150): A first visit to Montr?al might best begin here. This strikingly modernistic structure at the edge of Vieux-Montr?al marks the spot where the first European settlement put down roots in the city. It stands atop extensive excavations that unearthed not only remains of the French newcomers, but also of the native bands that preceded them. On the self-guided tour, you''ll wind your way through the subterranean complex. See p. 113.
QUEBEC CITY
Mus?e de la Civilisation, 85 rue Dalhousie ([??] 418/643-2158): Here is that rarity among museums: a collection of cleverly mounted temporary and permanent exhibitions that both children and adults find engrossing, without talking down or metaphysical maunderings. Make sure to make time for "People of Qu?bec ... Then and Now," a permanent exhibit that is a sprawling examination of Qu?bec history. See p. 234.
6 THE BEST OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
MONTREAL
Traverse the Lachine Canal: First constructed to detour around the rapids of the same name, Lachine fell into disuse after the St. Lawrence Seaway was built. Over the last few years, however, it has been renovated to serve as a recreational resource. It connects the Vieux-Port with Atwater Market, a little more than a mile away. You can explore the canal and its surroundings by guided boat tour or on foot-or you can rent a bicycle or in-line skates at Vieux-Port. See chapter 8.
Bike the City: Montr?alers'' enthusiasm for bicycling has provided the impetus for the ongoing development of bicycle paths that wind through downtown areas and out to the countryside. Cyclists are allowed to take their bikes onto designated M?tro cars, and some taxis and buses sport special racks for them. Rentals are available from several outlets. See "Outdoor Activities" in chapter 8.
QUEBEC CITY
Take a Walking Tour: Combine immersion in Qu?bec''s rich history with a good stretch of the legs among the battlements and along the ancient city''s cobblestoned streets. Use the walking tours in chapter 17 or go on a group tour; information about meeting points, times, and routes is at the information center at Terrace Dufferin, opposite Ch?teau Frontenac.
Visit Montmorency Falls: A 15-minute car or bus ride north of the city is this spectacular iron-tinged cascade-it''s higher than Niagara Falls, as you will frequently be reminded. You can walk to the base and, if sufficiently motivated, to the top. You can also take a cable car to the other side. Incredibly, there''s a footbridge, open to anyone brave-hearted enough to walk it, crossing directly over the plunging water. In summer, this is the site of an international fireworks festival. See "Montmorency Falls" in chapter 20.
7 THE BEST ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES
MONTREAL
Visit the Biod?me de Montr?al: This is perhaps the city''s most engaging attraction for children of any age. The Biod?me houses replications of four ecosystems: a Laurentian forest, the St. Lawrence marine system, a polar environment, and, most appealingly, a tropical rainforest. See p. 114.
Explore the Jardin Botanique and Insectarium: Montr?al''s Botanical Garden features Chinese and Japanese gardens and greenhouses, while the Insectarium next door is home to praying mantises, tarantulas, a Butterfly House, and a gift shop that sells lollipops with scorpions inside. See p. 115.
QUEBEC CITY
Watch the Changing of the Guard: La Citadelle is the fortress built by the British to repel an American invasion that never came. It''s still an active military post, and the ceremonial changing of the guard and beating the retreat are colorful and don''t take too much time. See p. 238.
Thrill to the Canyon Ste-Anne: The massive canyon and its thundering Ste-Anne waterfalls feature footbridges that go directly across the water. This attraction is about a 45-minute drive from the city. See chapter 20.
8 THE BEST OF MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY ONLINE
There''s lots of information on Montr?al and Qu?bec City on the Internet. Here are a few of our favorite resources:
Bonjour Qu?bec (www.tourisme.gouv. qc.ca): The official site of Qu?bec province''s government is a comprehensive information bank about all things Qu?bec. You''ll find information about upcoming events and ongoing attractions, and you can search for hotels and reserve online.
Midnight Poutine (www.midnight poutine.ca): This terrific blog-with more than a dozen contributors-describes itself as "a personal ongoing account of the city''s happenings" and "a delicious high-fat source of rants, raves, and musings. It provides the insight you never find in newspapers and the details and tangents that would never fit in a weekly."
Hour (www.hour.ca): Hour is a Montr?al culture magazine that highlights local happenings. It''s available in print and online, and includes entertainingly grumpy and often profane takes on current events. Restaurant and arts reviews are regularly updated.
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Excerpted from Frommer''s Montreal & Quebec City 2009by Leslie Brokaw Copyright © 2009 by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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