Chapter One
The Best of California by Harry Basch, Erika Lenkert, Matthew Richard Poole & David Swanson
California's allure is understandable. It really is warm and sunny most of the year, movie stars do abound in Los Angeles, and you can't swing a cat by its tail without hitting a rollerblading babe in Venice Beach. This part of the California mystique-however exaggerated it may be-does exist, and it's not hard to find.
But there's more-a lot more-to California that isn't scripted, sanitized, and broadcast to the world's mesmerized masses. Beyond the glitter and glamour is an incredibly diverse state that, if it ever seceded from the Union, would be a productive and powerful nation. We've got it all: redwood forests, an incredibly verdant Central Valley, the Sierra Nevada, deserts, a host of world-renowned cities, and hundreds of miles of stunning coastline.
And despite the crime, pollution, traffic, and earthquakes for which California is famous, we're still the golden child of the United States: America's spoiled rich kid everyone else either loves or loathes. (Neighboring Oregon, for example, sells lots of license-plate rims that proudly state, "I hate California.") But, truth be told, we really don't care. Californians know they live in one of the most diverse and interesting places in the world, and we're proud of the state we call home.
Granted, there's no guarantee that you'll bump into Arnold Schwarzenegger or learn how to surf, but if you have a little time, a little money, and-most importantly-an adventurous spirit, then Erika, David, Harry and I will help guide you through one of the most fulfilling vacations of your life. The four of us travel the world for a living, but we choose to live in California, because there's no other place on earth that has so much to offer. -Matthew Richard Poole
1 The Best of Natural California
Redwood National & State Parks: Come see the largest of all living things, the Sequoia sempervirens. Within the old-growth forests that line the northern California coast are acres and acres of unbelievably massive and majestic redwood trees, all of which shade a thick, lush canopy of huge ferns, mosses, and wild orchids. See "Redwood National & State Parks" in chapter 7.
Lake Tahoe: One of the world's most magnificent bodies of fresh water, sparkling Lake Tahoe is famous for its pure, azure water and incredible volume. See "Lake Tahoe" in chapter 8.
Yosemite National Park: You're in for the ultimate treat at Yosemite. Nothing in the state-maybe even the world-compares to this vast wilderness and its miles of rivers, lakes, peaks, and valleys. With 3 out of 10 of the world's tallest waterfalls, the largest granite monolith in the world, and some of the world's largest trees, Yosemite is one of the most fantastic natural places on the planet. See "Yosemite National Park" in chapter 9.
Big Sur: Rock-strewn beaches, towering cliffs, and redwood forests combine to form what may be the world's most dramatic coastal panorama. Our favorite vantage point for taking it all in is Garrapata State Park, a 2,879-acre preserve. See "The Big Sur Coast" in chapter 11.
The Elkhorn Slough Safari: When you're sick of schlepping your way through Monterey, take a 20-minute drive north and embark on a safe, friendly voyage best described as stepping into the pages of National Geographic. The up-close views of "rafts" of otters, harbor seals, and hundreds of bird species are priceless. See "Monterey" in chapter 11.
Cachuma Lake: On mountainous and scenic Calif. 154, half-way between Solvang and Santa Barbara, is this winter home to dozens of American bald eagles. Loons, white pelicans, and Canada geese are some of the other migratory birds that call this glassy lake home part of the year. See "The Central Coast Wine Country: Paso Robles & the Santa Ynez Valley" in chapter 12.
Joshua Tree National Park: You'll find awesome rock formations, groves of flowering cacti and stately Joshua trees, ancient Native American petroglyphs, and shifting sand dunes in this desert wonderland. See "Joshua Tree National Park" in chapter 15.
Torrey Pines State Reserve: Poised on a majestic cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, this state park is set aside for the rarest pine tree in North America. The reserve has short trails that immerse hikers into a delicate and beautiful coastal environment. See chapter 16.
2 The Best Beaches
Drake's Beach: This is a massive stretch of white sand at Point Reyes National Seashore. Winds and choppy seas make it rough for swimmers, but sun worshippers can have their Marin County tan for the day. See "Point Reyes National Seashore" in chapter 7.
Santa Cruz's Beaches: Santa Cruz has 29 miles of beaches that are varied enough to please all comers: surfers, swimmers, fishers, sailboarders, the sand-pail-and-shovel set, and the bikini and biceps crowd. For starters, walk down the steps from the famous Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk to the mile-long Main Beach, complete with summer lifeguards and golden-oldie tunes drifting over the sand. See "Santa Cruz" in chapter 11.
Santa Barbara's East Beach: This wide swath of white sand hosts beach umbrellas, sand-castle builders, and volleyball games. On Sundays local artists display their wares beneath the elegant palm trees. See "Santa Barbara" in chapter 12.
Malibu's Legendary Beaches: Zuma and Surfrider beaches served as inspiration for the 1960s surf music that embodies the Southern California beach experience. Surfrider, just up from Malibu Pier, is home to L.A.'s best waves. Zuma is loaded with amenities, including snack bars, restrooms, and jungle gyms. In addition to some of the state's best sunbathing, you can walk in front of the Malibu Colony, a star-studded enclave of multimillion-dollar homes. See "L.A.'s Beaches & Coastal Attractions" in chapter 13.
La Jolla's Beaches: Roughly translated, La Jolla means "the jewel," and the beaches of La Jolla's bluff-lined coast truly are gems. Each has a distinct personality: Surfers love Windansea's waves, harbor seals have adopted the Children's Pool, La Jolla Shores is popular for swimming and sunbathing, while the Cove is a top snorkeling spot and your best chance to spot the rare California state fish, the garibaldi. See "Beaches" in chapter 16.
3 The Best Golf Courses
Pebble Beach Golf Links: The famous 17-Mile Drive is the site of 10 national championships and the celebrity-laden AT&T Pebble Beach National Pro-Am. The nearby Pacific and a backdrop of the Del Monte Forest justify astronomical greens fees. See "Pebble Beach & the 17-Mile Drive" in chapter 11.
PGA West TPC Stadium Course (La Quinta): The par-3 17th hole has a picturesque island green where Lee Trevino made Skins Game history with a hole-in-one. The rest of Pete Dye's 7,261-yard design is flat with huge bunkers, lots of water, and severe mounding throughout. See "The Palm Springs Desert Resorts" in chapter 15.
Torrey Pines Golf Course (La Jolla): Two 18-hole championship courses overlook the ocean and provide players with plenty of challenge. In February the Buick Invitational Tournament is held here. The rest of the year, these popular municipal courses are open to everybody. See "Outdoor Pursuits" in chapter 16.
4 The Best Californian Travel Experiences
Hot-Air Ballooning over Napa Valley: Sure, you have to rise at dawn, but there's no better way to view Napa Valley than drifting over the vineyards in a balloon. Flights are offered in the morning on clear days, when the air is calm and cool. You can book a trip through your hotel or with Bonaventura Balloon Company ([??] 800/FLY-NAPA) or Adventures Aloft ([??] 800/944-4408). See "Hot-Air Ballooning over the Valley" in chapter 6.
Rafting Scenic Northern California Rivers: You can white-water raft through thrilling cascades of raging Class IV water or float through tranquil vistas of blue skies, deep forests, and wildlife. Depending on the river and the time of year, some trips are okay for children over age 6. See chapters 7 and 8.
Exploring a Real Gold Mine: Don your hardhat, "tag in," board the mine shuttle, and experience what it's like to be a gold miner. The Sutter Gold Mine tour company ([??] 866/762-2837) takes you deep into a mine that's loaded with gold deposits. You'll get an opportunity to sluice for some real gold. See "A Modern Gold Mine Tour" in chapter 10.
Taking a Studio Tour: Studio tours are an opportunity to see the actual stage sets for shows such as ER and The West Wing, and you never know who you're going to see emerging from his or her Star Wagon. See "Exploring the City" in chapter 13.
Visiting Venice Beach's Oceanfront Walk: You haven't visited L.A. properly until you've rented some skates in Venice and embarrassed yourself in front of thousands while taking in the human carnival around you. Nosh on a Jody Maroni's haute dog; buy some cheap sunglasses, silver jewelry, or ethnic garb, all while enjoying the wide beach, blue sea, and performers along the boardwalk. See "Exploring the City" in chapter 13.
Flying a World War II Fighter Aircraft: Don your parachute, strap yourself into the 600-horsepower fighter aircraft, and prepare to have your mind blown as you (yes, you) perform aerobatic maneuvers-loops, rolls, lazy-8s-high above the Carlsbad coastline. It's an experience you'll never forget. See p. 620.
Getting Up Close to the Desert's Gigantic Windmills: Anyone who's driven through the desert near Palm Springs has marveled at these structures. Now visitors have a chance to see, touch, and learn about the efficient power generators, and why they're clustered here. See "En Route to the Palm Springs Resorts" in chapter 15.
Explore Wreck Alley (San Diego): Five drowned vessels sit on the sea floor, 2 miles off Mission Beach, providing a chance for certified divers to investigate an exciting nautical graveyard that includes a 366-foot Canadian destroyer, the Yukon (intentionally sunk in 2000). See "Outdoor Pursuits" in chapter 16.
5 The Best of Small-Town California
St. Helena: In the heart of the Napa Valley, St. Helena is known for its Main Street, lined with Victorian storefronts featuring intriguing wares. In a horse and buggy, Robert Louis Stevenson and his bride once made their way down this street. Come for the old-timey, tranquil mood and the food. See "Napa Valley" in chapter 6.
Arcata: Arcata has it all: its own redwood forest and bird marsh, a charming town square, great family-owned restaurants, and even its own minor-league baseball team, which draws the whole town together for an afternoon of pure camaraderie. See "Eureka & Environs" in chapter 7.
Nevada City: The whole town is a National Historic Landmark and the best place to understand gold fever. Settled in 1849, it offers fine dining and shopping and a stock of Victorian frame houses. Relics of the cannibalistic Donner Party are on display at the 1861 Firehouse No. 1. See "The Gold Country" in chapter 10.
Pacific Grove: You can escape the Monterey crowds by heading 2 miles west to Pacific Grove, known for its tranquil waterfront and unspoiled air. Thousands of monarch butterflies flock here between October and March. See "Pacific Grove" in chapter 11.
Cambria: Near Hearst Castle, Cambria benefits from a stream of visitors, who bring the right amount of sophistication to this coastal town. Moonstone Beach holds a string of seaside lodges; farther north are dozens of sunbathing elephant seals, while the village is filled with B&Bs, artists' studios and galleries, and shops. See "San Simeon: Hearst Castle" in chapter 12.
Santa Catalina Island: Taking a day trip to the small town of Catalina makes for a most adventurous day: a scenic boat ride, shopping, snorkeling and diving, golfing, hiking, ice cream, sunburns, and DUI-free barhopping. Tip: The helicopter taxi is cheaper than you'd expect. See "Santa Catalina" in chapter 14.
Julian: This old mining town in the Cuyamaca Mountains near San Diego has long been known for its wildflower fields, the apple harvest, and charming bed-and-breakfasts. Julian and the surrounding communities were shaken by forest fires in October 2003, but-from a touring standpoint-most of the community is back to normal. There's plenty of pioneer history here, including a local-history museum, an 1888 schoolhouse, and mining demonstrations. See "Julian: Gold, Apple Pies & a Slice of Small-Town California" in chapter 16.
6 The Best Family Vacation Experiences
San Francisco: The City by the Bay is filled with pleasures for every family member. Ride the cable cars that "climb halfway to the stars," visit the Exploratorium, the Metreon, the zoo, the ships at the National Maritime Museum, Golden Gate Park, and much more. See chapter 4.
Lake Tahoe: Lake Tahoe has loads of family-fun things to do. Skiing, snowboarding, hiking, tobogganing, swimming, fishing, boating, water-skiing, mountain biking-the list is nearly endless. See "Lake Tahoe" in chapter 8.
Yosemite National Park: Camping or staying in a cabin in Yosemite is a premier family attraction in California. Sites are scattered over 17 campgrounds, and the rugged beauty of the Sierra Nevada surrounds you. During the day, the family calendar is packed with hiking, bicycling, white-water rafting, and even mountaineering to rugged, snowy peaks. See "Yosemite National Park" in chapter 9.
Santa Cruz: Surfing, sea kayaking, hiking, fishing, and shopping, not to mention those fantastic beaches and the legendary amusement park on the boardwalk-this funky bayside town has everything you need for the perfect family vacation. See "Santa Cruz" in chapter 11.
Big Bear Lake: Families flock year-round to this lake in the San Bernardino Mountains, and not just for the skiing. Horseback riding, watersports, and the Alpine Slide (kind of a snowless bobsled) are fun alternatives, and you can see and learn about wildlife at the Moonridge Animal Park. The village has a movie theater, arcade, and dozens of cutesy bear-themed businesses. The area's cabins are perfect for families. See "Big Bear Lake & Lake Arrowhead" in chapter 14.
Disneyland: The "Happiest Place on Earth" is enhanced by its sister theme park, California Adventure. Whether you're wowed by Disney animation, thrilled by the roller-coaster rides, or interested in the history and secrets of this pop-culture icon, you won't walk away disappointed. Get a FASTPASS to skip those long lines! See "The Disneyland Resort" in chapter 14.
San Diego Zoo, Wild Animal Park & SeaWorld: San Diego boasts three of the world's best animal attractions. At the zoo, animals live in naturalistic habitats such as Tiger River and Polar Bear Plunge, and it's one of only three zoos in the U.S. where you can see giant pandas. At the Wild Animal Park, most of the 3,500 animals roam freely over a 1,800-acre spread. And SeaWorld, with its water-themed rides, flashy animal shows, and detailed exhibits, is an aquatic wonderland of pirouetting dolphins and 4-ton killer whales with a fetish for drenching visitors. See "The Three Major Animal Parks" in chapter 16.
7 The Best Architectural Landmarks
The Golden Gate Bridge (San Francisco): More tomato red than golden, the famous bridge remains a stunning visual for the San Francisco skyline. It's also an excellent expanse to walk. See "Exploring the City" in chapter 4.
The Carson Mansion (Eureka): This house is a flamboyant Victorian-and one of the state's most photographed Queen Anne-style structures. It was built in 1885. See "Eureka & Environs" in chapter 7.
California State Capitol (Sacramento): Built in 1869 and renovated in 1976, the dazzling white capitol has the original statuary restored along its eaves, historical rooms furnished with antiques from the original offices, a strangely interesting collection of portraits of California governors (don't miss Jerry Brown's), and a dome that from the inside looks like a Faberge egg. See "Sacramento" in chapter 10.
Mission San Carlos Borromeo del Ro Carmelo (Carmel): The second mission founded in California in 1770 by Father Junpero Serra is perhaps the most beautiful. Its stone church and tower dome have been restored, and a garden of poppies adjoins the church. See "Carmel-by-the-Sea" in chapter 11.
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Excerpted from Frommer's California 2005by Harry Basch Excerpted by permission.
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