Chapter One
Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Banff National Park
Once you've decided to come to Banff National Park, the next step is to decide where you want to stay. The earlier you do this, the better your chances are of getting the kind of accommodations you want, whether it's a resort, a hotel, a cabin, a campsite, or an economical hostel. Most of the hotels in the park are located right in or very close to Banff Townsite. They are extremely busy during the summer season, from mid-June to early September. The rest of the hotels are located in the village of Lake Louise. There are very few lodging possibilities elsewhere in the park. If you're going to base your visit in the Town of Banff, try to spend at least one night of your trip away from the townsite; head to one of the excellent lodges in Lake Louise.
Campgrounds in Banff also fill up fast. At last, Parks Canada introduced a new campground reservation system in 2006. But as campsites are very popular, it's a good idea to reserve early at www. pccamping.ca or by calling [??] 877/737-3783.
1 Lodging in Banff National Park
Hotel rooms in Banff aren't cheap. And despite the long strip of hotels, lodges, and the like that line Banff Avenue, there are remarkably few vacancies in summer. So book ahead. For help selecting a hotel and making a reservation, contact the Banff/Lake Louise Tourism Bureau (224 Banff Ave., P.O. Box 1298, Banff, AB T1L 1B3; [??] 403/762-8421; www.banfflakelouise.com). Part of the Banff Information Centre, they have an up-to-the-minute list of hotel vacancies in the park. You might also try Banff Central Reservations ([??] 877/542-2633 or 403/277-7669; www.banffreservations.com). They work with 75 area hotels and are knowledgeable enough to help you make the best choice. A C$50 (US$42) deposit is required. Banff Accommodation Reservations ([??] 877/226-3348 or 403/ 762-0260; www.banffinfo.com) offers a similar service.
IN & AROUND BANFF TOWNSITE
EXPENSIVE
Buffalo Mountain Lodge * This is a mountain lodge in the truest sense. Perched on Tunnel Mountain just outside Banff Townsite, it's a first-class lodge designed to perfection, with peeled log frames, fieldstone fireplaces, log furniture, and an overall subdued decor that's straight out of an L.L. Bean catalog, right down to the stuffed animal heads mounted on the walls. The gorgeous stainless steel outdoor hot tub is reportedly the largest in Canada. The first buildings were built in the 1980s, with new wings added on since. The guest rooms in these newer wings have wood-burning fireplaces and private balconies. Guest room nos. 900 through 1100 are the farthest removed from Tunnel Mountain and, therefore, the most private. They look out onto a peaceful forest. My favorite guest rooms are nos. 1100 through 1200, also on the west side of the property. They have great views of Mount Rundle and the Bow Valley. Request an upper-level guest room with a climbing stone fireplace and high, open ceilings with wooden beams.
The decor in the guest rooms is cozy and woodsy; beds are dressed with feather duvets over plaid flannel sheets. The bathrooms are wonderful; amidst dark green tiles, many have heated slate floors, claw-foot tubs, and open glass stand-up showers. All of the guest rooms now have fireplaces. This hotel is an excellent choice, particularly if you want to be away from the bustle of Banff Avenue but still close enough to walk into town.
700 Tunnel Mountain Rd., Banff, AB T1L 1B3. [??] 800/661-1367 or 403/410-7417. Fax 403/410-7406. www.crmr.com. 108 units. May-Oct C$255-C$355 (US$214-US$298); Nov-Apr C$139-C$255 (US$117-US$214). Extra person C$25 (US$21). Children 11 and under stay free in parent's room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; Jacuzzi; activities desk; ski storage; babysitting; laundry service, Internet services. In room: TV/VCR, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel The Titanic of the Canadian Rockies, this is one of the most famous buildings in Canada. It's because of this spectacular and legendary hotel that Banff came to exist in the first place. Built in 1883, the "Springs" certainly stands out, not just because it looks like a baronial Scottish castle in the mountains, but also because of the steady stream of tourist traffic heading to the hotel. Wandering through the halls, you'll likely bump into shutter-happy tourists who have no intention of actually staying at the hotel-they're just dropping in for a rushed tour and a photo op. And just like you, they find it easy to get lost here. If you are a guest at the hotel it makes for quite a bit of distraction, and can keep you from really relaxing. (The hotel has moved the bus tour drop-off out of the main lobby to make the area more friendly to real guests.)
But, undeniably, the Springs is a sight to behold. The turrets, green roof, and thick stone walls are unique enough, but what really impresses is the hotel's public space: grand halls and lounge areas, stairwells and sitting areas, each with a unique (though sometimes bizarre) design and function. The Rundle Room, formerly the hotel's lobby, is now a sunny and very stately guest parlor. Heritage Hall is full of antiques and historical photographs, while the 15th-century Gothic-styled Mount Stephen Hall hosts private gatherings in a shrouded hall shared with statues of medieval knights.
The guest rooms here have long had a reputation for being quite stuffy and cramped, and uncomfortably warm in summer. All the rooms in the main building have been renovated in the last few years to address this problem, and the guest rooms are now brighter, cooler (thanks to air-conditioning), and cleaner, although they are essentially the same size. Even though they feel bigger, this still isn't a place to come after a great hike or ski to stretch out. Guest rooms are tastefully designed, with antique furniture and photos of the hotel's early days. Bathrooms are small but very clean. Besides the basic Fairmont rooms, there are a slew of suites (ask for one in the Tudor House for more privacy). Junior suites have a separate sitting room (which is so perfectly decorated, you won't want to do anything else but sit in there). The mammoth Presidential Suite has a panoramic view of the Bow Valley.
What is phenomenal about the Springs is what lies outside the guest rooms: incredible amenities, including the decadent Willow Stream Spa, a bowling center, horse stables, and seven restaurants. Enhancements seem to never stop, with the old adage, "If you can't get bigger, get better" directing plans. If you love history and grand elegance, this is the spot for you. There's really no competition for the kind of experience the Banff Springs offers its guests, many of whom save their whole lives to stay for one night, hoping to mingle with regularly visiting VIPs.
I don't think the Springs is overrated, but I do think it's over-the-top. The best way to shave some dollars is via the hotel's many packages, from bed-and-breakfast to skiing. It's worth the price to stay here if you want a big hotel with all the amenities you could ever dream of, but spending more for a deluxe room or suite should be left to those with overflowing coffers. If you're here to visit the park, save your money and stay elsewhere.
405 Spray Ave., Banff, AB T1L 1J4. [??] 800/257-7544 or 403/762-2211. Fax 403/ 762-5755. www.fairmont.com. 770 units. Rates vary dramatically based on desired views, dates, and availability. May-June starting at C$389 (US$327); June-Oct starting at C$529 (US$444); Oct-Apr starting at C$309 (US$260). Meal, ski, and spa packages available. Children 18 and under stay free in parent's room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking C$26 (US$22) per day. Amenities: 7 restaurants; 3 lounges; pub; indoor and outdoor heated pools; golf course on property; 5 outdoor tennis courts; spa; activities desk; ski desk; ski storage; riding stables; 5-pin bowling; concierge; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; parking; babysitting; laundry service. In room: TV w/movies and video games, minibar, Internet, hair dryer, iron.
Rimrock Resort With a view any hotel owner would kill for, the Rimrock, perched on the edge of Sulphur Mountain, has tastefully integrated its stunning natural setting with a very fine lodging experience. Though it can't claim the historical appeal of the Fairmont Banff Springs, this is one very classy resort nevertheless. What it can claim over the Springs is peace and quiet-high on most vacationers' lists. It's also smaller than the Springs, and much more manageable. A giant marble fireplace, cherry oak walls, leather chairs, and big windows offering views you can't get even in the penthouses of other local hotels grace the lobby. Soothing jazz music piped in through tastefully concealed speakers rounds out the atmosphere. The latest renovations, completed in 2001, have cleaned up the lobby-level restaurant and lounge. Use of many parts of the newly refurnished spa is included, and they've also added some new shops. In the winter, there's an outdoor ice rink with a fire pit. Hot chocolate and cider are served.
The guest rooms are airy and a good size. They have a clean and crisp feel to them, with new linens and more king-size beds. All are decorated in the same deep colors and run at a base price; you just pay more for a better view. Request a guest room on the east wing for the choicest views. Suites with panoramic mountain views are also available. Bathrooms have cream-colored walls and large tubs. Worth mentioning is their turndown service, which features handmade chocolates by renowned chocolatier and Banff local Bernard Callebaut.
The Rimrock has luxury, harmony, and natural beauty all rolled into one. With a whiff of an old boys' club, it's a good choice for families who aren't on a tight budget, and for those looking for some inspiring (but pampered) time with nature. The view is outstanding and the atmosphere is very classy, but still welcoming. The Rimrock offers a complimentary shuttle to downtown Banff.
Mountain Ave., P.O. Box 1110, Banff, AB T1L 1J2. [??] 800/661-1587 or 403/762-3356. Fax 403/762-4132. www.rimrockresort.com. 346 units. June 1-Oct 16 C$400-C$550(US$336-US$462); Oct 7-Dec 22 C$255-C$345(US$214-US$290); Dec 23-Jan 1 C$345-C$470 (US$290-US$395); Jan 2-May 30 C$255-C$345 (US$214-US$290). Extra person C$25 (US$21). Suites start at C$450 (US$378) and go up to C$1,200 (US$1,008). Children 18 and under stay free in parent's room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; cafe; large indoor saltwater pool; 2 squash courts; health club and spa; 24-hr. room service; parking. In room: A/C, TV w/movies, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
MODERATE
Brewster's Mountain Lodge You could almost miss the entrance of this quiet and peaceful Western-style hotel, right in the middle of the busy Banff shopping area. Owned and operated by the Brewster family, who essentially started the tourism industry in Banff more than 100 years ago, this lodge was built in the mid-1990s in a Western ranch style, with guest rooms laid out around a horseshoe-shaped hall. Each guest room is unique, although a common theme of expansiveness and simplicity runs through them all. Standard guest rooms are spacious and subtly under-decorated with pine furniture. A deep cranberry-colored carpet makes a style statement in all the guest rooms. The bathrooms are a bit small and dark, but clean. Four new rooms on the ground floor that front Bear Street are particularly large. Families will like the two-story loft suites. The new lobby-side Mediterranean-inspired restaurant Caf Soleil is more sophisticated and upscale than the lodge itself, and has received much attention from foodies in Banff. Brewster's is a good choice for active people who want to be close to the action. Pay an extra C$10 or C$15 to get a room with a view, most of which have balconies overlooking Bear or Caribou streets. Guest rooms on the top floor have higher ceilings and bigger windows.
208 Caribou St., Banff, AB T1L 1C1. [??] 888/762-2900 or 403/762-2900. Fax 403/ 762-3953. www.brewstermountainlodge.com. 77 units. June 23-Sept 30 C$199-C$239 (US$167-US$201) standard room; C$219 (US$184) and up junior suite; C$369 (US$310) and up Brewster suite. Oct 1-Dec 23 C$109-C$149 (US$92-US$125) standard room; C$129 (US$108) and up junior suite; C$279 (US$234) and up Brewster suite. Dec 24-Jan 2 C$159-C$199 (US$134-US$167) standard room; C$179 (US$150) and up junior suite; C$329 (US$276) and up Brewster suite. Jan 3-Feb 9 C$119-C$159 (US$100-US$134) standard room; C$139 (US$117) and up junior suite; C$289 (US$243) and up Brewster suite. Feb 10-June 22 C$129-C$189 (US$108-US$159) standard room; C$148 (US$124) and up junior suite; C$289 (US$243) and up Brewster suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Heated underground parking C$5 (US$4.20) per night. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna; laundry; library; ski storage. In room: TV, iron.
Buffaloberry Bed and Breakfast Finds Staying at the newest little inn in town gives you a taste of what it's like to live in Banff. Combining modern technology with a classic design, the unpretentious owners have reflected their own personal style and love of the outdoors in a building nestled in one of downtown Banff 's more quiet areas. It may be the best sleep in town, thanks to soundproof rooms, blackout curtains, solid-core doors, and luxurious natural linens. Bathrooms are spacious. The Olds Room is my favorite, thanks to lovely local furniture and nice views. Each room has its own heat control. Breakfasts include homemade pastries and friendly service, and make a great time to get tips from the owners to plan your day. Opened in March 2005, the buzz on the Buffaloberry is good and the vibe is comfortable and relaxing.
417 Marten St., Box 5443, Banff, AB T1L 1G5. [??] 403/762-3750. Fax 403/762-3752. www.buffaloberry.com. 4 units. May 20-Sept 30 and Christmas to New Year's C$295 (US$248); Oct 1-May 19 C$200 (US$168). MC, V. No children under 10 allowed. Amenities: Library; games room; patio. In room: TV.
Caribou Lodge This cozy lodge is a good choice if you want to relax and stretch out after a day of exploring the mountains. It's comfortable and priced to fit squarely in the upper mid-range, with log furniture and a rustic mountain design. As it's located on Banff Avenue, a few minutes from the center of town, those planning an active vacation will want to stay here. It's particularly good for visitors and families on ski holidays. Canadian owned and operated, the lodge was built in 1993, with a wide-open ski-chalet feel. Your first impression is of the lobby's huge stone fireplace and slate-tiled floor. The guest rooms for the most part continue this expansive feel, though the bathrooms are a bit dark. The deluxe suites, all with fireplaces, are the largest and most comfortable. The lodge offers a complimentary shuttle service that will take you anywhere in town, as well as to the ski resorts in winter.
521 Banff Ave., Banff, AB T1L 1A4. [??] 800/563-8764 or 403/762-5887. Fax 403/ 762-5918. www.bestofbanff.com. 200 units, 7 suites. June 10-Oct 9 C$219 (US$184) standard room; C$234 (US$197) superior room; C$300 (US$252) deluxe suite; C$350 (US$294) deluxe suite with Jacuzzi. Oct 10-Dec 19 C$129 (US$108) standard room; C$144 (US$121) superior room; C$300 (US$252) deluxe suite; C$350 (US$294) deluxe suite with Jacuzzi. Dec 20-Jan 3 C$185 (US$155) standard room; C$200 (US$168) superior room; C$300 (US$252) deluxe suite; C$350 (US$294) deluxe suite with Jacuzzi. Jan 3-Feb 10 C$129 (US$108) standard room; C$144 (US$121) superior room; C$300 (US$252) deluxe suite; C$350 (US$294) deluxe suite with Jacuzzi. Feb 11-June 9 C$159 (US$134) standard room; C$174 (US$146) superior room; C$300 (US$252) deluxe suite; C$350 (US$294) deluxe suite with Jacuzzi. Extra person C$15 (US$13). Children 16 and under stay free in parent's room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free underground parking. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; 3 Jacuzzis; ski desk; laundry service. In room: TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer, irons in suites.
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Excerpted from Frommer's Banff & Jasper National Parksby Christie Pashby Copyright © 2006 by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Excerpted by permission.
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