Chapter One
The Best of Mexico by David Baird, Shane Christensen & Joy Hepp
Across Mexico, in villages and cities, and in mountains, tropical coasts, and jungle settings, enchanting surprises await travelers. These might take the form of a fantastic small-town festival, delightful dining in a memorable restaurant, or even a stretch of road through heavenly countryside. Below is a starter list of our favorites, to which you''ll have the pleasure of adding your own discoveries.
1 THE BET BEACH VACATIONS
Puerto Vallarta: Spectacularly wide Banderas Bay is graced by 42km (26 miles) of sandy beach. Some, such as Playa Los Muertos-the popular public beach in town-abound with palapa restaurants, volleyball players, and parasailers. The beaches of Punta Mita, the exclusive development north of Vallarta, have white-sand, crystalline waters and coral reefs just offshore. Others around the bay nestle in coves, accessible only by boat. Puerto Vallarta is the only beach town in Mexico with an authentic colonial feel as well as first-rate resort amenities. See "Puerto Vallarta," in chapter 10.
Puerto Escondido: The best overall beach value in Mexico is principally known for its world-class surfing beach, Playa Zicatela. The surrounding beaches all have their own appeal; colorful fishing pangas dot the central town beach, parked under the shade of palms leaning over so far they almost touch the ground. Puerto Escondido offers unique accommodations at excellent prices, with exceptional budget dining and nightlife. See "Puerto Escondido," in chapter 11.
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo: These side-by-side resorts afford beachgoers the best of both worlds: serene simplicity and resort comforts. For travelers seeking to get back to basics, the best and most beautiful beach is Playa La Ropa, close to Zihuatanejo. The wide beach at Playa Las Gatas, with its restaurants and snorkeling sites, is also a great place to play. The high-rise hotels in Ixtapa, on the next bay over from Zihuatanejo, front Playa Palmar, a fine, wide swath of beach. The most beautiful beach in Ixtapa lies in front of Las Brisas hotel. See "Northward to Zihuatanejo & Ixtapa," in chapter 11.
Canc?n: Canc?n and the coastline of the Yucat?n state of Quintana Roo are home to Mexico''s most enticingly beautiful beaches, with powdery white sand and Caribbean waters the color of a Technicolor dream. Cancn also has the widest assortment of luxury beachfront hotels, plus more restaurants, nightlife, and activities than any other resort destination in Mexico. See chapter 14.
Isla Mujeres: There''s only one main beach here-Playa Norte-but it''s superb. From this island, you can dive El Garrafn reef, snorkel offshore, and take a boat excursion to the Isla Contoy national wildlife reserve, which features great birding and a fabulous uninhabited beach. See "Isla Mujeres," in chapter 15.
Tulum: Fronting some of Mexico''s best Caribbean beaches, Tulum''s small palapa hotels afford guests a little slice of paradise far from crowds and mega-resorts. The bustling town lies inland; the coast is quiet and should remain so, because all the hotels there are small and have to generate their own electricity. If you can pull yourself away from the surf, you''ll find nearby ruins to explore and a vast nature preserve as well. See chapter 16.
Playa del Carmen: "Playa" is Mexico''s hip beach destination with a pronounced ma?ana attitude. Above all, it''s easy and low key. You walk to the beach, you walk back to the hotel, you walk to one of the many good restaurants. Next day, you repeat. The sand is white; the water is clear blue and ideal for swimming. If you want more variety, you''ll find that ancient Mayan ruins, Cozumel, and the megaresort of Canc?n are near enough to round out your beach vacation. See "Playa del Carmen," in chapter 16.
La Paz: This state capital borders a lovely beach, dotted with colorful playgrounds and lively open-air restaurants. Take a cue from the local residents, though, and pass on swimming here in favor of the exquisite beaches just minutes from downtown. La Paz''s beaches and the islets just offshore have transformed this tranquil town into a center for diving, sea kayaking, and other adventure pursuits. See "La Paz: Peaceful Port Town," in chapter 19.
Los Cabos: Dramatic rock formations and crashing waves join forces with wide stretches of soft sand and rolling surf breaks. Start at Playa Palmilla and work your way down the Tourist Corridor to the famed Lover''s Beach at Land''s End. Some beaches are more appropriate for contemplation than for swimming, which isn''t all bad. See "Los Cabos: Resorts, Watersports & Golf," in chapter 19.
2 THE BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCES
Passing Time in the Plazas & Parks: All the world may be a stage, but some stages have richer backdrops than others. Town plazas are the place to sit and watch daily Mexican life unfold before your eyes. Alive with people, these open spaces are no modern product of urban planners, but are rooted in the traditional Mexican view of society. Several plazas are standouts: Veracruz''s famous z?calo (see chapter 13) features nearly nonstop music and tropical gaiety. One look tells you how important Oaxaca''s z?calo (see chapter 12) is to the local citizenry; the plaza is remarkably beautiful, grand, and intimate all at once. Mexico City''s Alameda (see chapter 5) has a dark, dramatic history-heretics were burned at the stake here during the colonial period-but today it''s a people''s park where lovers sit, cotton-candy vendors spin their treats, and the sound of organ grinders drifts over the changing crowd. San Miguel de Allende''s Jardn (see chapter 7) is the focal point for meeting, sitting, painting, and sketching. During festivals, it fills with dancers, parades, and elaborate fireworks. Guanajuato and Quer?taro (see chapter 7) have the coziest plazas, and M?rida''s El Centro (see chapter 17), can''t be beat on Sundays.
M?sica Popular: Nothing reveals the soul of a people like music, and Mexico has given rise to various styles, which you can hear in many different settings. You can hear brassy mariachi music in the famous Plaza de Garibaldi in Mexico City (see chapter 5), under the arches of El Pari?n in Tlaquepaque, and in other parts of Guadalajara (see chapter 9). Or perhaps you want to hear romantic boleros sung to the strumming of a Spanish guitar, or what Mexicans call m?sica tropical and related cumbias, mambos, and cha-cha-chas (see chapter 14).
Regional Folk Dancing: From the Ballet Folkl?rico in Mexico City to the Ballet Folcl?rico in Guadalajara (see chapters 5 and 9), or the almost-nightly park dances in M?rida (see chapter 17), Mexican folk dance events are diverse and colorful expressions of Mexican traditions.
Fireworks: Mexicans share such a passion for fireworks and such a cavalier attitude toward them that it''s a good thing the buildings are stone and cement, or the whole country would have burned down long ago. Many local traditions surround fireworks, and every festival includes a display. The most lavish are the large constructions called castillos, and the wildest are the toros that men carry over their shoulders while running through the streets, causing festival-goers to dive for cover.
Strolling El Malec?n: Wherever there''s a seafront road, you''ll find el malec?n bordering it. This is generally a wide sidewalk for strolling, complete with vendors selling pinwheels and cotton candy. In some places, it has supplanted the plaza as a centerpiece of town life. The best examples are in Puerto Vallarta, Mazatl?n (see chapter 10), La Paz (see chapter 19), Cozumel (see chapter 15), and Veracruz (see chapter 13).
Regional Fairs: Almost every city and town has its regional fair (feria regional). They showcase the best products of the region-tequila or fruit liquors, livestock, carved silver, or clay handicrafts.
3 THE BEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
Teotihuac?n: It''s so close to Mexico City, yet centuries away. You can sense the majesty of the past in a stroll down the pyramid-lined Avenue of the Dead, from the Pyramid of the Sun to the Pyramid of the Moon. Imagine what a fabulous place this must have been when the walls were stuccoed and painted brilliant colors. See "A Side Trip to the Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuac?n," in chapter 5.
Monte Alb?n: A grand ceremonial city built on a mountaintop overlooking the valley of Oaxaca, Monte Alb?n affords visitors panoramic vistas; a fascinating view of a society in transition, reflected in the contrasting methods of pyramid construction; and intriguing details in ornamentation. See "Oaxaca City," in chapter 12.
Palenque: Like the pharaohs of Egypt, the rulers of Palenque built tombs deep within their pyramids. Imagine the magnificent ceremony in A.D. 683, when King Pacal was entombed in his magnificent burial chamber, which lay unspoiled until its discovery in 1952. See "Palenque," in chapter 12.
Ek Balam: Archaeologists at this site have made the most astonishing discoveries of the decade. Ek Balam''s main pyramid is taller than Chich?n Itz?''s, and it holds a sacred doorway bordered with elaborate stucco figures of priests and kings and rich iconography. See "Ek Balam: Dark Jaguar," in chapter 17.
Uxmal: No matter how many times you see Uxmal, the splendor of its stone carvings is awe inspiring. A stone rattle-snake undulates across the facade of the Nunnery complex, and 103 masks of the rain god Chaac project out from the Governor''s Palace. See "The Ruins of Uxmal," in chapter 17.
Chich?n Itz?: Stand beside the giant serpent head at the foot of El Castillo pyramid and marvel at the architects and astronomers who positioned the building so precisely that shadow and sunlight form a serpent''s body slithering from the peak to the earth at each equinox (Mar 21 and Sept 21). See "The Ruins of Chich?n Itz?," in chapter 17.
4 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS
Scuba Diving in Cozumel & along the Yucat?n''s Caribbean Coast: The coral reefs off Cozumel, Mexico''s premier diving destination, are among the top five dive spots in the world. See chapter 15. The Yucat?n''s coastal reef is part of the second-largest reef system in the world and affords excellent diving. Especially beautiful is the Chinchorro Reef, 32km (20 miles) offshore from Majahual or Xcalak. You can also dive in the clear, cool water of the many caverns and cenotes (sinkholes, or natural wells) that dot the interior. See chapter 16. Other excellent dive sites are in and around Puerto Vallarta and off Los Cabos. See chapters 10 and 19.
Fly-Fishing off the Punta Allen Peninsula: Serious anglers will enjoy the challenge of fly-fishing the saltwater flats and lagoons of Ascension Bay, near Punta Allen. See "Tulum, Punta Allen & Sian Ka''an," in chapter 16.
Hiking & Horseback Riding in the Copper Canyon: Miles and miles of beautiful, remote, challenging canyon lands are paradise for the serious hiker or rider. Follow a Tarahumara Indian guide, who can take you deep into the canyons to places rarely viewed by tourists. Experienced horseback riders can set up a 12-day ride, with Para?so del Oso, that tests a rider''s skill in mountainous terrain. It has to be the most challenging ride in North America. See "The Copper Canyon Train & Stops along the Way," in chapter 18.
Golf in Los Cabos & Puerto Vallarta: Puerto Vallarta, with its eight championship courses, is the new destination for golfers to watch-with a second Jack Nicklaus Signature course that opened in fall 2008 in Punta Mita. Added to the appeal of golf here are fabulous courses within easy driving distance along the Pacific Coast at El Tamarindo, Isla Navidad, and Manzanillo. See chapter 10. The Corridor between San Jos? del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas is one of the world''s premier golf destinations, with seven championship courses and a total of 207 holes slated for the area. See chapter 19.
Surfing Zicatela Beach in Puerto Escondido: This world-class break is a lure for surfers from around the globe. It challenges the best in the sport each September and October, when the waves peak and the annual surf competitions take place. See chapter 11. Other noted surf breaks in Mexico include Sayulita, Punta Mita, and Las Islitas Beach near San Blas (all north of Puerto Vallarta); Playa Costa Azul, on the outskirts of San Jos? del Cabo; and "Killers" at Todos Santos Island in northern Baja. See chapters 10 and 19.
Sportfishing in La Paz: Billfishing for magnificent marlin and sailfish is popular in southern Baja, and La Paz pulls in the most consistent share. See chapter 19. Fishing is excellent in Los Cabos, Mazatl?n, Manzanillo, and Zihuatanejo, too. See chapters 10, 11, and 19.
Sea Kayaking in the Sea of Cortez: From Cabo San Lucas to La Paz, and continuing north, the Sea of Cortez is a sea kayaker''s dream. It has dozens of tiny coves and impressive inlets to pull into and explore, under the watchful gaze of sea lions and dolphins. Professional outfitters provide gear, guides, and instruction for novices. See chapter 19.
5 THE BEST OF NATURAL MEXICO
Michoac?n''s Million Monarch March: Mexico is an exotic land, and no place drives this home more forcefully than a mountain forest where you stand surrounded by the fluttering wings of millions of monarch butterflies-it''s like being in a fairy tale. The setting is the rugged highlands of Michoac?n, from mid- to late November through March. See "Morelia," in chapter 8.
Whale-Watching: Each winter, between December and April, magnificent humpback and gray whales return to breed and instruct their young in the waters of Banderas Bay, fronting Puerto Vallarta, and in Los Cabos. See "Puerto Vallarta" in chapter 10, and "Los Cabos: Resorts, Watersports & Golf," in chapter 19.
Sea Turtle Nesting Beaches: Between June and November, sea turtles return to the beaches of their birth to lay their eggs in nests on the sand. With poaching and natural predators threatening these species, communities along Mexico''s Pacific coast have established protected nesting areas. Many are open for public viewing and participation in the egg collection and baby-turtle release processes. Turtles are found along the Yucat?n coast, in Baja Sur, on the Oaxaca coast, in Puerto Vallarta, and on Costa Alegre. See chapters 10, 16, and 19.
Lago Bacalar (Yucat?n Peninsula): The waters of this crystal-clear, spring-fed lake-Mexico''s second largest-are noted for their vibrant color variations, from pale blue to deep blue-green and turquoise. The area surrounding the lake is known for birding, with over 130 species identified. See "Lago Bacalar" in chapter 16.
The Rugged Copper Canyon: The canyons, known collectively as the Copper Canyon, are beautiful, remote, and unspoiled. The entire network is larger than the Grand Canyon, in the U.S.; it incorporates high waterfalls, vertical canyon walls, mountain forests in the canyon-rim country, and semiarid desert inside the canyons. This is the land of the Tarahumara Indians, who gained their legendary endurance from adapting to this wilderness. See chapter 18.
Desert Landscapes in Baja Sur: The painted-desert colors and unique plant life are a natural curiosity in Los Cabos, where horseback, hiking, and ATV trips explore the area. The arid desert contrasts sharply with the intense blue of the strong sea surrounding the peninsula. See "Los Cabos: Resorts, Watersports & Golf," in chapter 19.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Frommer''s Mexico 2010by David Baird Copyright © 2009 by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
